Brisbane, take two.

When I first landed back in Australia, I spent the day here in Brisbane – if you’ve been reading my rambles since then, you may remember that there was a Hare Krishna festival on at the time! In retrospect, I was far too travel-weary to notice much else, and the change in climate from the UK was distracting too! Now, weather-and-time adjusted, I’m back.

Brisbane is a city of bridges, and seems to be trying hard to blend the contrast between architecture and nature. It’s a strange mix, in parts, of a serious business/retail centre, a playground and a stage for history and arts. I walked across the Brisbane River from the city centre, via the Kurilpa pedestrian bridge, to the library and art galleries of the South Bank. There are several bridges across the river, or you can just hop on board a City Cat or City Hopper. Cycling is encouraged and given priority along the boardwalk – it’s easy to hire a bike from several hire-stands dotted around the city, and on the South Bank there’s even a free bike fixing station:

Nature is determined not to be pushed out by architecture, and can be seen insisting on its place, softening the built environment. It was interesting to see that a sprawling old tree has been given metal ‘crutches’ to support its spreading branches.

It’s not unusual to happen across random pieces of sculpture in this city of surprises either. I guess you’d expect to find something in the area of the library/art galleries, but maybe not a head-standing elephant? The ‘Diggers’ sculpture is perhaps more to be expected here, but I came across it quite by accident in a  a city side-street:

If you ever have the opportunity to spend some time here, do walk along the South Bank. Whether you want to stroll by the water,  walk through some rainforest, eat delicious food, find a safe swimming beach (yes, really!) and play area for the kids, some Japanese influence,  a cycle,  a run, or just to watch the world go by, it’s all here. Oh, and nobody turns a hair if you just want to find a shady spot to do your daily exercises:

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Currawongs and Bunyas – could only be Australia!

I’ve been on my Dad’s farm the last few days – I don’t know what you think of when you hear the word ‘farm’ but I wouldn’t mind betting that you’re not picturing the dry Downs! Six thirty every morning brings  fingers crossed that the ABC weather forecast mentions rain (knowing full well it won’t), cries of currawongs and lowing of cattle plodding up the hill in search of sunlight, and it’s time to go out and fill the water troughs – having been woken by the thump of possums dropping off trees onto the iron roof for their usual four-thirty scuttle-about. So, for some, ‘farm’ doesn’t bring to mind chickens and lambs and crops in the fields, it’s a bit more like this:

However, a short (by Australian standards) drive away are the Bunya mountains; we lived here once, too many years ago to mention! This is the only Bunya Pine forest in the world, and a walk through here gives a very different view of this part of Queensland (apologies to my father, I wanted to show the scale of the trees!):

Some of the bunya trees are over 150 feet tall and still have the scars of foot-notches used for climbing them to get the bunya nuts for food – if you’ve never tried one, the trick is to bake them and scoop the soft inside flesh out; it tastes a little like hazelnuts. The day we went there was a small bushfire a little distance away and the local (volunteer) fire service were stopping anyone venturing too far. It’s sad to be told that a lot of bushfires are started deliberately here – why would anyone want to destroy this unique landscape?

Up the Downs.

I’m heading back up the Downs today (yes, that does make sense!) and won’t have internet access until after the weekend, so thought I’d just share a few random images from the last few days. I’ve chosen some that represent part of what this place means to me. Hope you like them!

 

Roos at last!

It has been noticeable to me during this visit to Aus that the number of kangaroos/wallabies is far less than previous visits – sadly, the roadkill is noticeably increased 😦 Bird-life is thriving – it’s fab to see the bright colours of huge flocks of wild parakeets and budgies (I do hate to see them caged and alone). I paid a visit (re-visit) to Australia zoo – the last time I was there, Steve Irwin was still very much larger than life and it felt like he’d encapsulated some of wild Australia in a few acres. I found this time, in his absence (or maybe it’s just ‘progress’?)  that it had more of the feel of a zoo set up for the amusement of people than a haven for the wildlife, and the staff were noticeably less enthusiastic and concerned. Consumerism, for example in tacky plastic trinkets and clothes produced in his daughter’s name, and dinosaur-related articles in the name of his son, was obvious and somewhat distracting and irrelevant to the environmental issues he wanted highlighted. I left feeling a little disappointed on his behalf and on behalf of the Australia I love and feel slipping away. Wildlife, the reefs, the land itself – all are changing and diminishing in the name of progress, and it saddens me.

Hervey Bay

I thought readers of this blog may have seen enough photos of fabulous beaches this week, so here’s another side of Aus for you! To get to the Botanic Gardens, I was told ‘take a right at the shark’ (OK, that worked!) and my new mate Chris (6 feet 10 at least I reckon) thought his ‘can’t show my face, darl, I’m wanted’ joke was really funny! I took a walk along one of the longest piers in Australia, currently being painted with a tiny little roller by Chris (there are a lot of blokes called Chris here!) – takes three weeks and then they start again!

 

Agnes Water/1770

Agnes Water/1770 claims to have the best beach in Australia – I’ve not been to all of them so can’t say whether that’s true or not, and I reckon Port Douglas’ four-mile beach is a contender, but at sunrise this morning I wasn’t arguing!

As I walked along the beach with the waves thundering and frothing, it wasn’t hard to imagine why James Cook chose this as his first landing place in Queensland (hence the name). If you get the chance to come here, climb over the sand-dunes at about 6.30; it’ll be worth it!

 

Bundaberg

Left the Sunshine Coast this morning, and am currently in Agnes Water (photos to follow, will try to catch the early morning beach). Meandered through a bit of Queensland (this place is VAST), and ‘popped in’ to the rum distillery on my way through Bundaberg – OK, so it wasn’t actually on my way to anywhere but as I’m a free agent… and now I definitely need an extra suitcase for the way back! Just in case you’re getting the impression that Queensland is all sunshine and pretty scenes, I’ve included a photo of the first thing you see at the distillery site 🙂

 

The John Wayne Walk!

You shouldn’t visit  Australia without riding at least one horse, right? Well, that’s what I thought anyway – now, I couldn’t just go for a quick canter along the beach – oh no, it had to be an all-day mountain and forest trek. I don’t know how long the John Wayne Walk will last, but I’m so saddle-sore I want to cry! Was it worth it? Absolutely – if only for the wild koala spotted on the way. I haven’t taken these photos, obviously, but thought you’d like to see them anyway 🙂

Sun, sea and sand – not a snake in sight!

Say the word ‘Australia’ and for some people it conjures up images of beaches, surf clubs and endless sunshine. I’d hate to disappoint those people, so today (just for them, you understand) I spent the day in Mooloolaba and Caloundra. Fine white sand, 27 in the shade, iced coffee and of course lifeguards …and the endless blue horizon. For those of you who equate Australia with spiders, snakes and insects – the only creatures I saw today were birds, fish and the little crab you see below 🙂

 

Kondalilla Falls.

The most spectacular sight at Kondalilla Falls isn’t the falls. The view from just off  the walking trail to the falls was literally breath-taking. I’m not too fond of heights, so stepped with trepidation down the rocky slope to be greeted by this, and the absolute wonder and awe of it brought tears to my eyes:

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This part of Queensland is full of natural wonders, in the true sense of the word – I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves – enjoy!